What Is a Wood Jointer? Complete Guide to Uses, Parts, and Buying Tips

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The Short Answer

A wood jointer is a stationary machine that flattens one face and squares one edge of a rough board, creating a reference surface that all subsequent cuts and milling operations reference from. It is typically the FIRST machine used in the lumber preparation workflow, followed by a thickness planer.

If you buy rough-sawn lumber, work with reclaimed wood, or want boards that are perfectly flat and square, you need a jointer. If you only buy pre-surfaced boards from home center stores, you may not need one at all.

Best beginner benchtop jointer → WEN 2-blade benchtop jointer

Best upper mid-range benchtop →Delta 37-071 MIDI bench jointer

Best premium benchtop with helical head → JET JJ-6HHBT helical benchtop jointer

What Is a Wood Jointer?

A wood jointer (sometimes called a “joiner” though the correct American term is jointer) is a stationary power tool designed to create flat, square reference surfaces on rough or uneven lumber. Every wood jointer has three essential components: an infeed table where you place the rough board, an outfeed table where the flattened board exits, and a rotating cutter head between them that removes small amounts of wood from the bottom of the board.

The name “jointer” comes from the tool’s original purpose. Craftsmen used it to create perfectly straight, square edges on boards that could then be “joined” together with glue to build wider panels from narrower boards. That function remains important today, but modern jointers do more than just edge preparation.

What Does a Wood Jointer Do?

A wood jointer performs two specific tasks that no other single tool can do as effectively:

Face jointing

Creates a completely flat, twist-free surface on one face of a board. You lay the board flat on the infeed table with any cup or twist facing down, run it across the cutter head repeatedly with light passes, and end up with one perfectly flat face.

Edge jointing

Creates a straight edge that is exactly 90 degrees perpendicular to the flat face. You stand the board on its edge with the flat face against the fence, run it across the cutter head, and end up with a straight, square edge.

The output of these two operations is what woodworkers call a “reference face” and “reference edge” – the two flat, square surfaces that all subsequent milling operations reference from. Without them, dimensioning lumber accurately is nearly impossible.

Wood Jointer vs Planer: The Most Important Distinction

This is the most common confusion for beginners, and it matters because getting it wrong wastes money on the wrong tool.

Jointer

It flattens ONE face and squares ONE edge of a board. It cannot make a board a specific thickness. It cannot make the two faces of a board parallel to each other. It also cannot flatten a board that is longer than roughly twice the length of its infeed table.

Planer

It takes a board that already has ONE flat face and makes the OPPOSITE face parallel to it, reducing the board to a specific target thickness. A planer cannot flatten a warped or twisted board on its own, it will simply reproduce the same warp on both faces.

The two tools work together, not as substitutes. The complete lumber preparation workflow requires both:

  1. Joint one face flat on the jointer
  2. Joint one adjacent edge square on the jointer
  3. Plane the opposite face parallel to the first on the planer
  4. Rip to width on a table saw (using the jointed edge as reference) or joint the fourth edge
wood jointer parts diagram showing the infeed table, outfeed table, cutter head, fence, guard, and motor

The 6 Key Parts of a Wood Jointer

Understanding the parts helps you shop, maintain, and troubleshoot the machine.

1. Infeed Table

The infeed table is where you place the rough board before it meets the cutter head. It sits slightly LOWER than the outfeed table, and the difference between them is your depth of cut. Adjustable knobs or levers let you set this depth, typically between 1/64 inch (very light finish pass) and 1/8 inch (aggressive rough pass).

2. Outfeed Table

The outfeed table catches the board after it exits the cutter head. Critically, this table must be EXACTLY level with the top edge of the cutter head knives at their highest rotation point. If the outfeed is too low, the board tips down and gets a taper. If it is too high, the board catches on the outfeed edge and snipes at the ends. Getting outfeed height right is the single most important setup task for any jointer.

3. Cutter Head

The rotating cylinder between the tables that does the actual cutting. Two main types exist:

Straight-knife cutter heads

use 2 to 4 straight blades (typically HSS or M2 HSS) arranged parallel to the axis of rotation. They produce good cuts but can leave scallop marks and are noisier than spiral heads.

Helical (spiral) cutter heads

use many small carbide inserts arranged in a spiral pattern along the cutter head. Each insert can be rotated 4 times before replacement. Spiral heads cut smoother, run quieter, produce less tearout on figured wood, and last far longer than straight knives. They cost more upfront but are worth the investment for serious use.

Our jointer blades universal guide explains blade options in depth.

4. Fence

The vertical guide that runs perpendicular to the tables. When edge jointing, the flat face of the board rides against the fence, ensuring the resulting edge is perfectly 90 degrees to the face. Most jointer fences tilt to allow angled cuts (bevels) between 45 and 90 degrees.

5. Guard

A safety cover that automatically retracts as the board passes over the cutter head, then springs back to cover the exposed knives. Different jointer models use different guard designs (pork chop guard, European-style guard). Never remove or disable the guard.

6. Motor and Drive

The motor drives the cutter head via a belt or direct drive. Motor size determines what you can joint efficiently: a 1 HP motor handles a 6-inch jointer for most hardwoods. Larger 8-inch and 12-inch jointers require 1.5 HP to 3 HP for professional use.

Types of Wood Jointers

Wood jointers come in three main categories, each suited to different workshops and budgets.

Benchtop Jointers (6 and 8 inch)

Portable jointers that sit on a bench or stand. Weight ranges from 30 to 70 pounds. Motor sizes are smaller (typically under 1 HP). Cutting widths of 6 or 8 inches.

Best for

Home shops with limited space, hobby woodworkers, occasional use, beginners testing whether they need a jointer.

Popular Models on Amazon

Closed-Stand Jointers (6, 8, and 12 inch)

Floor-standing jointers mounted on a closed steel stand. Weight ranges from 250 to 500 pounds. Motor sizes 1.5 to 3 HP. Cutting widths 6, 8, or 12 inches.

Best for: Serious hobbyists, small shop professionals, regular use, larger projects.

Popular models: JET JJ-6HHDX, Grizzly G0490X, Powermatic 60C. Note: floor-standing jointers are typically sold through specialty woodworking retailers (Rockler, Woodcraft, or the manufacturer’s site) rather than Amazon.

Industrial Jointers (12, 16, and 20+ inch)

Heavy-duty machines for professional cabinet shops and production environments. Weight over 700 pounds. Motor sizes 3 to 7.5 HP. Cutting widths 12 inches and up.

Best for: Full-time cabinet shops, production furniture makers, small commercial operations. Typically overkill for hobby use.

How to Use a Wood Jointer?

Using a jointer safely and effectively requires proper technique, not just the right machine.

For Face Jointing

  1. Inspect the board and identify the cupped or concave side (this face goes DOWN on the jointer)
  2. Set your depth of cut to 1/32 inch for the first pass, less on hardwoods
  3. Position the board on the infeed table, well before the cutter head
  4. Turn on the machine and let it reach full speed
  5. Feed the board slowly and steadily, pushing DOWN on the outfeed side once it passes the cutter head
  6. Use push blocks ,never let your hands pass over the cutter area
  7. Take multiple light passes until the entire face is uniformly flat

For Edge Jointing

  1. Verify the fence is exactly 90 degrees to the tables (check with a machinist square)
  2. Set the depth of cut to 1/32 inch
  3. Place the board with its flat face firmly against the fence
  4. Push down and against the fence as you feed through
  5. Multiple light passes until the edge is straight and square

Do You Actually Need a Wood Jointer?

This is the honest question most articles skip. A jointer is not a universal necessity.

You need a jointer if

  • You buy rough-sawn lumber from sawmills
  • You work with reclaimed wood
  • You build furniture or cabinets requiring flat, square boards
  • You want to save 30 to 50 percent on lumber costs by buying rough
  • You need boards wider than 6 inches to be perfectly flat

You may not need a jointer if

  • You only use pre-surfaced boards from home centers (already flat and square)
  • You do occasional small projects with dimensional lumber
  • You use pocket-screw joinery that tolerates slightly imperfect boards
  • Space and budget are severe constraints

For those who occasionally build projects, the honest answer might be to skip the jointer entirely and buy S4S (surfaced-four-sides) lumber. For anyone serious about furniture, casework, or wood milling, a jointer is one of the most valuable investments in the shop.

Best Wood Jointers by Budget and Use Case

Best for Beginners on a Budget: WEN 2-Blade Benchtop Jointer

Solid entry-level jointer at a very approachable price. Two-blade cutter head, straightforward controls, and small enough to store on a shelf when not in use. Not fancy but does the fundamental jobs. Perfect for learning jointer technique before committing to a larger investment, or for anyone who only occasionally needs to flatten a board.

→ WEN 2-Blade Benchtop Jointer on Amazon

Best Budget Alternative: VEVOR Benchtop Jointer

Similar price tier to the WEN with a different feature set. Includes an adjustable cutterhead and slightly larger table dimensions. VEVOR products are Chinese-manufactured budget tools, so quality control varies more than name brands. Inspect carefully on arrival and confirm smooth operation before running material.

→ VEVOR Benchtop Jointer on Amazon

Best Mid-Range from a Trusted Brand: Craftsman CMEW020

Craftsman remains a well-known name for good reason. The CMEW020 offers solid build quality, standard 6-inch cutting width, and Craftsman’s brand support. Good middle-ground choice for amateur who want name recognition without paying premium prices.

→ Craftsman CMEW020 Benchtop Jointer on Amazon

Best Upper Mid-Range: Delta 37-071 MIDI Bench Jointer

Delta is one of the most respected names in American woodworking machinery, and the 37-071 MIDI proves why. A step above typical benchtop jointers with better-machined tables, more powerful motor, and Delta’s heritage build quality. If you want a benchtop from a serious brand that will last decades, this is the pick.

→ Delta 37-071 MIDI Bench Jointer on Amazon

Best Premium Benchtop with Helical Head: JET JJ-6HHBT

The best benchtop jointer available on Amazon, period. The JET JJ-6HHBT features a helical cutter head with carbide inserts, which is a substantial upgrade over straight blades. You get quieter operation, dramatically better cuts on figured wood, and longer edge life between insert rotations. If you use a jointer weekly, work with hardwoods, or care about cut quality, this is the benchtop to buy.

→ JET JJ-6HHBT Helical Benchtop Jointer on Amazon

For a detailed comparison, see our 8-inch benchtop jointer buying guide.

What to Look For When Buying a Wood Jointer?

If you have decided you need a jointer, our complete jointer buying guide covers the key features and considerations before you make a purchase. Prioritize these features in order: 

1. Cutting Width

Match the width to the widest boards you regularly work with. 6-inch jointers handle most home shop needs. 8-inch models give you flexibility for wider boards. 12-inch and larger are professional/production territory.

2. Cutter Head Type

Choose helical or spiral over straight-knife if budget allows. The difference in cut quality on figured wood is dramatic, and the long-term cost of inserts is lower than replacing straight knives repeatedly.

3. Table Length

Longer tables handle longer boards more accurately. Benchtop jointers typically have tables of 24 to 32 inches total. Floor models range from 46 to 84 inches. As a rough rule, your jointer can flatten boards up to about twice the total table length.

4. Fence Quality

The fence must be dead flat, adjustable, and lock securely at 90 degrees and 45 degrees. Cheaper jointers cut corners on the fence, and a flimsy fence undermines the whole tool.

5. Motor Size

1 HP is enough for 6-inch benchtop jointers with light use. 1.5 to 2 HP is standard for 8-inch and floor-standing models. 3 HP or more for 12-inch and industrial machines.

6. Weight and Portability

Heavier machines have less vibration and produce cleaner cuts. But heavy also means less portable and more shop space required. If you have a small shop, a benchtop jointer that stores on a shelf may be more valuable than a floor model that never comes out.

Wood Jointer Maintenance Basics

  • Simple habits keep a jointer performing well for decades.
  • Wax the tables monthly with paste wax to reduce friction and prevent rust.
  • Check outfeed table height quarterly with a straightedge. Adjust as needed.
  • Verify fence squareness before each project with a machinist square.
  • Inspect blades or inserts every 20 to 30 hours of use. Replace or rotate as needed.
  • Keep the fence and tables free of accumulated dust and pitch.
  • Cover the machine when not in use to keep dust out of the mechanism.

FAQs

1) Is a wood jointer the same as a hand planer?

No. A hand plane is a manual tool held in your hands and pushed across a stationary board. A wood jointer is a stationary power tool where the board moves across a rotating cutter head. 

2) Can I use a wood jointer on plywood?

Technically yes, but plywood’s alternating grain and hidden glue lines dull jointer blades very quickly. 

3) How long does a wood jointer last?

Quality jointers last decades with basic maintenance. Older Delta and Powermatic jointers from the 1960s and 1970s are still in daily use today. Modern jointers should last 20 to 40 years for hobby use.

4) What size wood jointer should a beginner buy?

Most beginners are best served by a 6-inch benchtop jointer while they learn technique and confirm they will use the tool. Upgrading to 8-inch or larger makes sense after you know your needs.

5) Is a jointer or planer more important?

Both are important but serve different purposes. If you must choose one, most people pick a planer first because it can process pre-flattened boards (planed lumber from the store) but a jointer alone cannot make boards a specific thickness.

6) Can I skip the jointer and just use a planer?

Only if your boards are already flat. A planer alone cannot flatten a warped or twisted board. To truly flatten rough or warped lumber, you need to joint one face first.

7) How much does a good wood jointer cost?

Benchtop jointers cost $300–$400, mid-range models $1,200–$2,000, professional 8-inch models $2,500–$4,500, and industrial jointers $5,000+. 

8) Are helical or spiral cutter heads worth the extra cost?

Helical-head jointers offer cleaner, quieter cuts, less tearout, and longer life, making the extra $300–$800 worthwhile for serious users.

The Bottom Line

A wood jointer is a foundational lumber preparation tool that creates the flat, square reference surfaces that all subsequent milling depends on. It is not the most exciting shop tool, and beginners often skip it thinking a planer alone will handle their needs. That skip usually costs them time, wasted lumber, and frustration.

If you buy rough-sawn or reclaimed lumber, a jointer is essential. If you only use pre-surfaced dimensional lumber from home centers, you may not need one at all. Be honest about your work before you invest.